TEXT: KAYA LATERMAN

Located just over an hour on the Shinkanesen from Tokyo, the mountain resort town of Karuizawa is where visitors and locals prefer a slower pace to life. Surrounded by forests and with the impressive Mount Asama, an active volcano, towering in the background, the area is visually pleasing because from most spots, all you see are trees. The town’s strict construction codes prohibit excessive tree cutting even on private property and building heights must remain low. Karuizawa’s serenity has attracted many of Tokyo’s elite to own second homes here for over a hundred years.

A tranquil scene in the woods of Karuizawa

Karuizawa’s main street is bustling with shops

The town was marked as an upscale getaway when, among other foreigners, Alexander Croft Shaw, a Scottish-Canadian missionary, found himself seeking respite from Tokyo’s muggy climate. After claiming the town as an extraordinary getaway, Shaw, who arrived in Yokohama in 1873 and taught English to writer and educator Yukichi Fukuzawa, also built one of the first churches in the area that still stands today.

For the Japanese, Karuizawa is where the former Emperor Akihito met his future wife, Empress Emerita Michiko on a tennis court in 1957, and where writers Ryunosuke Akutagawa and Saisei Muro spent much time. John Lennon also vacationed here several times before his passing. The French Bakery, where Lennon often bought his baguettes, still proudly hangs a large photo of him in the store, and he was known to stay at the historic Mampei Hotel with his family.

An archival photo of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, while Summering at the legendary hotel Manpei

But before all of that, Karuizawa was one of the 69 stations of the Nakasendo, a travel route that stretched from Kyoto to Tokyo during the Edo era. And you can still walk portions of this historic national highway. A popular route is to hike from Karuizawa to Yokokawa Station in Annaka in Gunma Prefecture, about a five-hour journey.

The area is filled with tourists all year round. The winter months invite those who ski and enjoy soaking in hot springs, while the warmer weather attracts those who enjoy golfing, hikes, and simply relaxing in the expansive woodlands in cooler temperatures. The main shopping area, Kyu Karuizawa, is filled with small shops and is bustling year round.

Hoshino Stone Chapel by American architect Kendrick Kellog

Hiroshi Senju Museum (Photo: Daici Ano. © Hiroshi Senju Museum Karuizawa)

There are many architectural gems in Karuizawa, both public and private. Most visitors marvel at the curvature of the walls of the Hiroshi Senju Museum and the Hoshino Wedding Chapel, while many private homes that have been built recently employ a minimalist look.

Similar to what happened around the world, the pandemic brought a real estate boom.

“People in Tokyo wanted to escape the virus and many of them fled to Karuizawa once they realized going overseas, like Hawaii, wasn’t an option,” according to Mugi Fukushima, the Ginza branch manager of List Sotheby’s International Realty.

“Supply is low as the newer homes don’t stay on the market for long,” Mr. Fukushima said, adding that there seems to be a new, younger full-time community that is growing. (The latest nickname for the town is “Kita-Azabu,” or northern Azabu, an affluent area of Tokyo, according to Mainichi Shimbun.) “Everyone is seeking that sense of freedom they can’t experience in a big city,” he said.

The town also has several resort-style condominium projects that have, or are about to be completed, including the Øst Residence Karuizawa, where amenities like house-keeping, exclusive dining and rental car services are attracting buyers. Meanwhile, hotel operators are hoping domestic tourists stay longer than a weekend. “Right now, we are branding ourselves as a work resort and seeking to attract those who can stay for several nights to a week,” said Chiho Ishizaki, marketing manager at Hotel Indigo Karuizawa, which opened on February 17, 2022.

About eighty percent of the hotel was built using karamasu wood from Nagano Prefecture and all of the 155 stylish, modern rooms either have a garden or river view. The hotel also boasts a large courtyard with an outdoor bar and fire pit, as well as spa services by Harnn, a famous Thai spa operator.

“We want visitors to be able to enjoy a resort hotel experience that’s totally different than what you would find in a big city,” Ms. Ishizaki said. “Nature and space makes all the difference in Karuizawa.”

Year-Round Resort Town Karuizawa Sees A Pandemic Boom